Annapurna Circuit Trek: 20 Things To Know (2026 Guide)

The Annapurna Circuit trek in Nepal has often been called one of the best treks in the world.

Completing the trek was one of the hardest, but most enjoyable travel experiences of my life – and if you’re interested in trekking in Nepal, I can’t recommend the Annapurna Circuit enough.

(If you want to know what it actually felt like up there, I wrote about my day crossing Thorong La here – the hardest day of the whole trek.)

However, there are some important things to know before hiking the Annapurna Circuit, which is why I’ve written this detailed guide.

Trekking in autumn 2026 (after the floods)? Late-September floods and landslides hit Manang and Mustang hard. Hundreds of trekkers were stranded or flown out, and Thorong La and Tilicho Lake closed for a stretch. By early-to-mid October 2026 the circuit was walkable again: Thorong La is open and being crossed, the road runs to Chame, and the Chame–Bhratang stretch is often walking-only while that road is repaired. By mid-October, arrivals at Dharapani were back around 150–200 a day (still below a normal peak of 400–500). Build in two or three buffer days, start walking from Dharapani or Chame rather than racing the jeep road high, and re-check ACAP notices plus conditions in Manang the day before you go for the pass. This guide covers the rest – permits, the guide rule, costs, vegan food and altitude – as of October 2026.

What Is the Highest Point of the Annapurna Circuit?

The highest point of the Annapurna Circuit is Thorong La Pass (also spelled Thorung La), at 5,416 meters (17,769 feet).

That’s higher than Everest Base Camp (around 5,364 m / 17,598 ft). Most trekkers cross it in one long day from Thorong Phedi or High Camp on the Manang side, down to Muktinath on the other side.

A quick note on the number: most sources (Wikipedia, ESA’s Eduspace, UKClimbing, Nepali news reports and most trekking agencies) give 5,416 m – and that’s the figure on the sign at the top. A few say 5,415 m or 5,417 m, and the feet figure varies too (17,750–17,769 ft) – that’s just rounding and different surveys.

Annapurna Circuit Overview

Route length	Between 160–230 km (100–145 mi), depending on where you start and finish
Days to complete	Around 16–21 days walking from Besisahar (often 12–14 if you take jeeps on the road sections)
Location	Central Nepal (Manang and Mustang districts)
Highest point	Thorong La Pass, 5,416 m (17,769 ft)
Peak hiking months	October–November (also March–May)
Recommended route	Anti-clockwise (Besisahar → Manang → Thorong La → Muktinath)
Permits	ACAP + TIMS card
Guide	Officially required since April 2023 (see #6)

My Tips for Trekking the Annapurna Circuit

1. Store Your Luggage With Your Accommodation

I stayed at a small family-owned guesthouse in Pokhara. I asked the owners if I could leave my bigger backpack with them while I trekked and I would stay with them once I returned.

I think this is common practice in Nepal and they were happy to do so.

2. Negotiate With Tea Houses

While on the trek you’ll pass a number of tea houses where you’ll find beds for the night. These tea houses are most often open to negotiate prices, especially if you’re trekking with more than two people.

I was trekking with a group of four and we would negotiate a deal where if we eat at the tea house, we sleep for free. Due to the inflated prices of their restaurants, they were usually happy with this deal.

That trade still works the other way round – on the upper circuit especially, many lodges charge more (some menus say double) for the room if you don’t eat dinner and breakfast there. So plan on eating where you sleep.

3. Bring Peanut Butter (Smart Snacks)

While there’s no food shortage on the trek, it can get expensive.

I packed a big jar of peanut butter with me, which took up little room, but I was able to order a plain chapati and add the peanut butter to it each morning for a cheap and easy breakfast.

It’s also a lifesaver for vegans – it’s one breakfast you know is plant-based (just ask for your chapati without ghee – more on that in #16). Nuts, dried fruit and a B12 supplement are worth packing too.

4. Be Prepared to Purify Water

The water isn’t drinkable on the Annapurna Circuit. And bottled water gets more expensive the higher you climb – plus all those plastic bottles have to go somewhere.

The best way to save money on the Annapurna Circuit is to purchase water purification pills to add to your water.

The alternative is to purchase a life-straw, which filters your water as you drink.

I have tried both of these options and I recommend purification pills at high altitude, because sucking on a life-straw can be difficult when you’re low on oxygen.

LifeStraw

Some villages also have Safe Drinking Water refill stations, where you can top up your bottle with treated water for a small fee (2026 guides quote roughly NPR 40–100 a liter – well under $1 USD). They’re not in every village though, so still carry pills or a filter.

Things to Know Before You Trek the Annapurna Circuit

5. Plan the Best Time to Trek

The best times to trek the Annapurna Circuit are autumn (late September – November) and spring (March – May).

• Autumn (October – November) is peak season – clear skies, big views and busy tea houses.
• Spring (March – May) is a little hazier but warmer, with rhododendrons in bloom lower down. I trekked in spring 2017 and still hit snow up high.
• Monsoon (June – September) brings heavy rainfall that negatively affects the trails, plus landslides on the roads.
• Winter (December – February) is cold and quiet, and heavy snow can close Thorong La – in late January 2026, the authorities in Mustang banned trekking over the pass after snowfall of up to four feet.

Even in peak season, the weather can turn. The October 2014 snowstorm that killed 43 people, many of them trekkers on or near the pass, hit right in the middle of the busy season – check the forecast in Manang before you cross, and don’t go up into bad weather.

6. Get Your Annapurna Circuit Permits (and Know the Guide Rule)

To trek the Annapurna Circuit you need two permits: an ACAP permit and a TIMS card.

• ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Permit): NPR 3,000 for foreign nationals (about $20 USD) and NPR 1,000 for SAARC nationals (about $7 USD). You can buy it online on the NTNC e-permit site (there’s a small card fee) or in cash at the permit counters in Kathmandu (Nepal Tourism Board, Bhrikutimandap) and Pokhara. It costs double (NPR 6,000) if you buy it at a checkpost on the trail, so get it before you go.
• TIMS card: NPR 2,000 for foreign nationals (about $13 USD) and NPR 1,000 for SAARC nationals. Since 2023 it’s issued through registered trekking agencies, not to individual trekkers.

The guide rule: since April 1, 2023, foreign trekkers in Nepal’s national parks and conservation areas – including the Annapurna Circuit – are officially required to trek with a licensed guide, with the TIMS card arranged through a registered agency. As of October 2026, the Nepal Tourism Board’s TIMS page still lists the Annapurna Circuit under this rule.

How strictly is it enforced? Honestly, it’s been patchy. Trekkers’ reports since 2023 say ACAP permits get checked (sometimes more than once) but TIMS cards and guides often haven’t been, and some people have walked it independently.

That may be changing. After the September 2026 floods, ACAP asked trekkers on the longer routes in the conservation area to go with a licensed guide (short trips to places like Jomsom, Muktinath and Ghandruk were exempt). And it’s the law on paper – it could be enforced at any checkpost on any day, and if you’re breaking local rules, your travel insurance may not pay out.

My advice? Plan to go with a licensed guide (or a guide and porter), and get your TIMS through the agency you book with. In 2026, a licensed guide typically costs around NPR 3,000–5,000 (about $20–33 USD) a day, plus tips, and the fee normally covers the guide’s own food and bed. When I walked it in 2017, I didn’t have a guide, and I’d still prefer to trek independently for the freedom – but the current rule and insurance picture mean you should still plan for a licensed guide.

7. Download Offline Maps

It’s a good idea to have offline maps downloaded because internet is unreliable on the trek.

I travel with Maps.me which worked great on the trek. It’s built on OpenStreetMap data, so it shows walking trails as well as the road – but don’t rely on it alone to find the trails that avoid the road. Follow the paint markings on the ground too (see #11).

8. Gear Up

You need good gear for a trek like Annapurna.

While you’ll find almost everything you need in Thamel, Kathmandu and Pokhara, it won’t always be good quality.

If you don’t want to purchase everything, a lot of shops will do rentals for specific gear like sleeping bags or hiking poles. Some shops will buy back gear afterward too. (My rental sleeping bag from Pokhara was a cheap one – and on the coldest night of the trek, I felt it.)

Don’t forget:

• Water purifying pills or a Life-Straw
• Annapurna Map
• Face and neck scarf – the jeep roads on the lower circuit get very dusty
• Headlamp – you’ll start pass day in the dark
• A basic first-aid kit with blister care

9. Pack Light

Probably the biggest regret of hikers is they over-packed.

While it’s nice to pack fresh clothes for each day, it’s just not realistic. You will smell and your clothes will get dirty.

Pack light and smart – you’ll thank me later.

10. Draw Out Enough Money (Annapurna Circuit Costs)

When I trekked, most people spent about $20 USD per day on the Annapurna Circuit. That’s no longer realistic – food alone now costs about that much a day on the lower circuit, before you add a room, a guide or any extras.

Prices rise as you gain altitude. A 2026 survey of teahouse menus along the circuit found dal bhat at about NPR 800 (around $5 USD) in Chame and NPR 1,200 (around $8 USD) at Thorong High Camp, with food alone running about NPR 2,000–3,000 ($13–20 USD) a day on the lower circuit and NPR 3,500–5,000 ($23–33 USD) a day from Manang up. Rooms are the small part of the bill as long as you eat where you sleep, but add a guide’s daily fee if you’re following the rule in #6.

Make sure to draw out extra cash in case of injury and added days for acclimatization.

The important thing to remember is to draw out your money in Pokhara or Kathmandu. When I trekked, there were no ATMs on the circuit itself, and the last ATM was at Besisahar – which was often completely empty.

These days there’s an ATM in Chame, and one opened in Manang in 2022, but don’t count on them – they can be offline, out of cash or refuse foreign cards. Treat them as an emergency backup only.

11. Choose Your Starting Point (and Dodge the Road)

The official starting point of the Annapurna Circuit is the town of Besisahar.

However, a lot of trekkers skip the first few days of the trek and head up by jeep.

As someone who started at Besisahar, I can recommend it. There was something special about leaving the small town out into the wilderness.

The big change since I trekked is the road. A jeep road now runs from Besisahar all the way up to Manang (and on to Khangsar), and on the other side of the pass there’s road from Muktinath down through Jomsom, Tatopani and Beni. The main stretch still without a road is from Manang over Thorong La to Muktinath.

The good news is you don’t have to walk on the road. The NATT (New Annapurna Trekking Trails) routes are waymarked with red-and-white paint for the main trail and blue-and-white for alternative routes and side trips, and they keep you off the jeep track for much of the way. A few worth knowing:

• Tal – Dharapani: NATT sections run on the opposite side of the river from the road for parts of this stretch.
• Upper Pisang – Ghyaru – Ngawal: the high route to Manang, around 3,700 m. It’s quieter, the views are bigger, and it’s better for acclimatizing than the valley floor.
• Ice Lake (Kicho Tal) and Praken Gompa: side hikes from Manang (Ice Lake is around 4,600 m) – perfect for climbing high and sleeping low.

After this autumn’s floods, some trail sections may be damaged or rerouted, so ask locally before you head off on a detour.

If you’re short on time, a sensible compromise is taking a jeep to Dharapani or Chame and walking from there. Don’t take a jeep all the way to Manang – Besisahar sits at around 760 meters and Manang at around 3,540, so that’s a gain of roughly 2,780 meters in a single day, which is asking for altitude sickness.

12. Cover Yourself

Hiking in Nepal is no joke.

While trekking the Annapurna Circuit, three people were emergency evacuated out by helicopter. A lot of others experienced AMS and had to turn back.

It’s always wise to have good travel insurance, but even more so when high-altitude trekking. Check that your policy covers trekking up to at least 5,500 meters and helicopter evacuation, and read the small print on whether it requires you to follow local rules – including trekking with a licensed guide.

On the Trail

13. Take AMS Seriously

I can’t stress this enough. People die from AMS, so make sure you’re mindful and turning back is always an option.

The Annapurna Circuit goes to extremely high altitudes. In fact, Thorong La Pass (the highest point) is higher than Everest Base Camp.

AMS can start once you’re sleeping at about 2,450 meters (8,000 ft), and if you feel it, take a rest day or two to acclimatize. (I’d written 3,000 meters here before – the medical guidance says it can start lower.)

The general advice is to climb high, sleep low. So, it’s recommended to take side-hikes which take you to higher altitudes and then return to sleep lower through the night.

A few rules of thumb from the CDC and the Wilderness Medical Society:

• Above 3,000 m, try not to raise your sleeping altitude by more than about 500 m a day, and add an extra acclimatization night for every 1,000 m you gain (the Wilderness Medical Society puts it as a rest day every 3–4 days).
• Plan at least one, ideally two, extra nights in or around Manang (around 3,540 m) before heading up toward the pass.
• Know the warning signs. Headache, nausea and poor sleep are AMS. Stumbling, confusion or slurred words can mean HACE (brain swelling), and breathlessness at rest can mean HAPE (fluid on the lungs). Both are emergencies – go down immediately.
• Talk to your doctor before you go about altitude medication. I carried some just in case – and as my Thorong La story shows, a pill is no substitute for going down.
• The Himalayan Rescue Association runs an aid post in Manang during the main trekking seasons, with free daily altitude talks. In autumn 2026 the talks are at 3 pm, and the post is open until the end of November.

14. Set Out Early

There are a few benefits to starting each morning early.

You’re likely to have clearer weather, albeit, cooler temperatures. But you’re also going to arrive at your destination earlier, which is good for securing a place to sleep.

In busy months, tea houses might fill up.

My whole trip was about three weeks (walking days plus Pokhara and the jeep out). On the trail itself I only experienced one tea house booked out. However, it was the only tea house in a very small village. We had enough daylight to make it to the next town in time to get a bed.

15. Respect Porters and Locals

Porters – often called “Sherpas”, although the Sherpa are actually one of Nepal’s ethnic groups – make their living carrying hikers’ gear for them. Their work is some of the most physically demanding and dangerous in the world.

It’s important to appreciate the hardship of their work, both physically and emotionally, being away from their families for weeks at a time.

Likewise, the local Nepali and Tibetan families who make their living providing food and comfort to hikers deserve much respect.

The least we can do as visitors is to follow cultural etiquette and customs and give thanks for their hospitality. Rough Guides wrote this great article on Nepali cultural norms.

16. Replenish Your Body (Vegan Food on the Trail)

You won’t go without food on the Annapurna trek.

Tea houses are well prepared to whip up a nice warm meal along the way. It’s incredible how you can be so off-the-grid, yet served up delicious homely meals at every stop.

And while dal bhat and momos are everywhere, veggie burgers and even apple pies are just as common.

So eat up, you’ll need the energy.

Is the Annapurna Circuit vegan-friendly? Mostly, yes – as long as you ask. Dal bhat (lentil soup, rice and veggie curry) is the trekker’s staple, it’s naturally plant-based, and refills are usually free. The catch is ghee (clarified butter), which is often the default cooking fat in dal, chapati, rice and fried veggies.

Watch out for:

• Ghee in dal, chapati and curries – ask for it cooked in oil
• Tibetan butter tea (made with yak butter and salt) and milk or masala tea
• Yak cheese, cheese momos, pizza and pasta
• Tibetan bread and pancakes, which are often made with milk or egg
• Egg in fried rice and noodles
• Porridge made with milk
• Honey in ginger-lemon-honey drinks
• Apple pie, where the pastry may well be made with butter – ask

Usually safer bets (but still ask): dal bhat without ghee, veg thukpa or thenthuk (noodle soups), veg fried rice or noodles without egg, veg momos, boiled potatoes, tsampa (roasted barley) with water, black or lemon tea, and sea buckthorn juice.

Some handy Nepali phrases:

English	Nepali
No ghee, please	Ghiu na halnuhos
No milk, please	Dudh na halnuhos
No egg, please	Anda na halnuhos
Please cook it in oil	Tel ma pakaunu hos
I don’t eat meat, fish, eggs, milk or ghee	Ma masu, machha, anda, dudh, ghiu khandina

17. Side Hike to Tilicho Lake

Tilicho Lake is known to be one of the best side-hikes on the Annapurna Circuit trek.

It’ll take you a couple of days to detour off, but it’s worth it to see one of the highest lakes in the world – and once you’re past the end of the road at Khangsar, it’s trail all the way up. (The trail was closed for a while after the September 2026 floods, so check it’s open before you go.)

Also, at around 4,919 meters (16,138 ft), it’s good high-altitude training for Thorong La Pass at 5,416 meters (17,769 ft).

18. Don’t Rush

AMS can occur by reaching high altitudes too fast.

But on another level, this is a special time to be in the mountains, in one of the most beautiful places on earth.

Don’t rush, stop every once in a while, and take it all in.

19. Keep Electronics Warm

It’s no shock your electronics will die fast in the cold mountains.

But by keeping them warm with your body heat, you’ll save a lot of precious battery life.

I kept my GoPro camera and phone on the inside of my jacket which helped maintain their batteries very well.

20. Choose Where to Finish

An interesting aspect of the Annapurna Circuit trek is the ability to end almost anywhere.

Some trekkers choose to finish the loop and walk downwards towards Pokhara, decreasing in altitude. However, this is often overlooked, and many end at Muktinath or Jomsom – both now on the road.

Getting Off the Circuit

No matter where you choose to end the trek, you’ll need to make some decisions when it comes to getting back to your base.

If you’ve chosen to not walk the rest of the way down, you’re left with three options: bus, jeep and aircraft.

By Aircraft

Jomsom has a tiny airport and offers flights through the mountains down to Pokhara. I’d imagine this is one of the most scenic flights in the world.

Flights only run in the morning (usually done by 11 am because of strong winds) and are often delayed or cancelled by weather. Heads up for autumn 2026: Tara Air and Summit Air suspended regular Pokhara–Jomsom flights in mid-October 2026, reportedly for about five months, though charter flights are still running. Check the latest before you plan around a flight.

By Jeep

It might be more affordable than catching a plane, but taking a jeep down the mountain has just as much thrills.

This was the option I chose and there were definitely times I was scared for my life. Jeeps run from Muktinath and Jomsom down to Beni and Pokhara.

This autumn’s floods damaged the Beni–Jomsom road in dozens of places. By late October 2026, buses and jeeps were running through to Mustang again, but expect delays and check conditions on the day. Shared jeep fares aren’t fixed – 2026 guides quote roughly NPR 2,500–4,000 ($16–26 USD) a seat from Jomsom to Pokhara – so confirm the price at the jeep stand before you get in.

By Bus

Buses are another option, but slower than jeeps. I was a little disturbed to see broken up buses over cliff edges. It’s your call.

Annapurna Circuit FAQs

What Is the Highest Point of the Annapurna Circuit?

Thorong La Pass, at 5,416 meters (17,769 feet). Some sources list 5,415–5,417 m, but 5,416 m is the most widely used figure.

Do You Need a Guide for the Annapurna Circuit in 2026?

Officially, yes – since April 2023, foreign trekkers need a licensed guide, with the TIMS card arranged through a registered agency. Enforcement has been patchy, but it can be checked at any time, and after the 2026 floods ACAP asked trekkers on longer routes to use a guide – so plan for one.

What Permits Do You Need for the Annapurna Circuit?

An ACAP permit (NPR 3,000 for foreign nationals, or double at a trail checkpost) and a TIMS card (NPR 2,000), issued through your trekking agency.

How Long Does the Annapurna Circuit Take?

Around 16–21 days walking from Besisahar, depending on your end point, side trips and acclimatization days. Using jeeps on the road sections can shorten it to around 12–14 days, but don’t cut your acclimatization days.

When Is the Best Time to Trek the Annapurna Circuit?

October–November is peak season, with March–May the next best. Avoid the June–September monsoon, and expect snow and possible pass closures in winter.

Is the Annapurna Circuit Vegan-Friendly?

Yes. Dal bhat, veg momos, noodle soups and fried rice are on every menu. Just ask for no ghee, no milk and no egg, and skip the butter tea.

What’s It Like to Cross Thorong La?

Hard – it was one of the hardest days of my life. I’ve written the full story of my day crossing Thorong La, from the sleepless night at High Camp to the prayer flags at the top.

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